I surfed with Matt yesterday morning. There were some overhead green slabbing closeouts. Each one teased that it would have an exit but there were none. I didn’t make one barrel but it was fun. I think Matt made a few… We laughed about how geriatric we felt trying to get to our feet in quickly breaking waves these days.
In between sets he told me that his friend – who I remember because last summer he showed up at Matt’s place with a bump stock to build an AK47 and swore the world was going to end in October – he had sent him a new video and it had a compelling take on Covid. I laughed and he said I’ll probably think he’s crazy but he’s going to send me a link.